Opal: A Complete Guide to Types, Properties, and Using Opal in Your Jewelry Designs
Few gemstones inspire as much wonder as opal. Its play-of-color — flashes of red, green, blue, and gold dancing across the stone's surface — has made it one of the most beloved gems in history. For jewelry makers, opal offers an almost infinite variety of looks, from the fiery brilliance of Ethiopian Welo opal to the soft, pastel charm of pink opal.
What Makes Opal Unique?
Unlike most gemstones, opal is amorphous — it has no crystalline structure. It's composed of tiny silica spheres arranged in a grid-like pattern. When light passes through these spheres, it diffracts and produces opal's signature spectral colors. The size and regularity of the spheres determine which colors appear: smaller spheres produce violet and blue; larger spheres produce red and orange.
Types of Opal for Jewelry Making
Ethiopian Welo Opal
Discovered in the Welo region of Ethiopia in the 1990s, Welo opal has taken the gem world by storm. It's typically hydrophane (it absorbs water), which means it can temporarily lose its play-of-color when wet — but it returns as it dries. Welo opal often shows vivid, rolling flashes of color across a white or crystal body. Our Welo Opal Strands (18") are perfect for bead-based designs and multi-strand necklaces.
Pink Opal
Pink opal is a common opal — meaning it doesn't display play-of-color — but its soft, dusty rose color is incredibly popular for bohemian and feminine jewelry styles. It's more durable than precious opal and easier to work with. Our Pink Opal Rose Cut Cabochons have a faceted back that catches light beautifully in open-back settings.
Aurora Opal (Doublets)
Doublets are a smart, budget-friendly option: a thin slice of precious opal bonded to a dark backing material to enhance the color play. Our Aurora Opal Hearts, Rose Cut Doublets are a customer favorite — the heart shape and rose cut make them ready-to-set statement pieces.
Opal Meaning and History
The ancient Romans called opal opalus — the "precious stone." Pliny the Elder wrote that opal combined the beauty of all other gems. In Aboriginal Australian tradition, opal was created when the Creator came to Earth on a rainbow, and where his feet touched the ground, the stones came alive with color. Opal is the birthstone for October and is associated with creativity, inspiration, and emotional amplification.
Working with Opal: What You Need to Know
Opal is one of the more delicate gemstones, rating just 5.5–6.5 on the Mohs scale. Here's how to handle it successfully:
- Avoid heat and sudden temperature changes — opal contains water and can crack (called "crazing") if it dries out too quickly.
- Use protective settings — bezels, rub-over settings, or deep prongs protect the stone's edges.
- Don't use ultrasonic or steam cleaners — ever.
- Store separately from harder stones that could scratch the surface.
- For doublets specifically, avoid soaking in water, as it can loosen the adhesive bond.
Choosing the Right Opal for Your Project
For a statement pendant, try a Welo opal strand focal or an Aurora doublet heart. For boho earrings, our Pink Opal Rose Cut Cabochons are a perfect fit. For multi-strand necklaces, Welo opal strands give you beautiful, consistent color throughout.